This is my new tasting menu served at Zoni Restaurant. We will be serving it in the month of January – can we do it longer? It depends on the supply of the ingredients. Yet, one thing is certain – during the process of harvesting roe we managed to obtain more catfish and pike perch roe which we let dry. In January you can expect a new item on the menu that will be full of orgasmic flavor. In January we will introduce many new dishes – yesterday I came up with something and I’m so turned on by it.
December – the most difficult month in the culinary world comes to an end. January theoretically allows to take a deep breath, but I know that this time it won’t work like that.
FIRST BITE BOTARGA
Flathead grey mullet / black garlic / saffron butter / Sichuan pepper Chew slowly and for a long time – even one minute. Let each ingredient break free.
Flathead grey mullet’s roe combines all five flavors; it’s the taste of the sea. A Greek family has made this Bottarga and it’s the fifth generation that produces it. Black garlic has such a complex flavor – along with bottarga the experience of five flavors simply bursts. Sichuan pepper awakens our glands and we will even feel a gentle numbness. The butter mixed with saffron will prolong the flavors. I recommend that you put everything on your tongue, chew slowly, and experience these flavors for over a minute.
SOUP HERRING ROE
/ fish broth/ Buddha’s hand, dill, egg yolk, cream
Herring roe is small, but full of flavor. Broth is a reduction of sea and freshwater fish. At the end we put a smoldering log in, added some vodka to make the flavors more intense and round. I learnt these two tricks from the Russian fishermen. Buddha’s hand, also known as fingered citron, is an aromatic citrus that looks like a crooked monster; in fact, it’s the oldest citrus fruit when it comes to genetics. Slightly fermented with dill it adds tons of freshness to this intense dish. The soup is seasoned with cream and yolk – as the old Polish cuisine called for.
THE THIRD BITE – FIRE SMOKED OJCÓW TROUT ROE
/ fire roasted celery/ celery simmered in butter with tonka beans, sage, and malt. The nutty flavor of the root vegetable is intensified by the burnt butter, tonka beans, marzipan, caramel, and vanilla which come in direct contact with salty, cherry wood smoked Ojców trout roe that bursts in your mouth.
THE FOURTH – JELLIES BALTIC SEA TROUT ROE
/ beef reduction/ Seyval Blanc green wine from Dwór Sanna Two opposite but complement forces. Simmered for many days dark and intense stock from the roasted meat, bones, roasted vegetables, and herbs. Naturally thick, dark, sweet and condensed. On the other side there is new, fresh, acidic wine from Dwór Sanna.
MAIN COURSE – STURGEON
Fillet – Antonius Siberian caviar/ smoked Mangalica lard Caviar is salted sturgeon roe. Polish caviar is becoming a renowned brand in the world. Sturgeon is a fish with incredibly meaty flesh. After frying, it is rolled in salted Mangalica lard – a Hungarian pig breed that has exceptionally fat and tasty meat.
Along with caviar and fermented wild garlic fruit it embodies a symbolical ideal combination.
INTERMEZZO – WYBOROWA EXQUISITE
vodka, cucumber – sorbet
We are literally washing off our taste buds…
DESSERT – CATFISH ROE
Dried/ Manufaktura Czekolady chocolate mousse
digging your warm tongue into this cold chocolate mousse is a must. As the
temperature rises, your experience will reveal it all. The sweetness, the bitterness from the ultimate, eco cocoa beans from the Manufaktura Czekolady.
Photos: EWA WASILEWSKA
Translation: Magdalena Gendźwiłł